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    June 04

    Crazy for Cricket

    The West Indies are back!!!  As a recent bandwagon jumper filled with new-found passion for the sport and team I am hooked and passionate about their mission.  Unlike a lot of those old-timer, loyal fans who have been burned far too many times in the past few years... I am youthful and optimistic about their chances.
     
    India was number 2 in the world.  West Indies are number 8... but haven't won any matches in ages.  They just whooped India in the one-day format, and are in the midst of opening some more cans of whoop-ass on India in the test format.
     
    For all you North Americans... cricket is about 1000x more interesting than baseball.  I know it seems slow and boring... but once you understand the game it is impossible to turn away.  You never know when wickets will fall.

    Haiti - Cultured and Strong - Maybe not Poorest of the Poor

    After re-reading my entry I decided that I somewhat misrepresented Haiti and wanted to make some clarifications.  Haiti gets enough negative publicity and misrepresentation... example the hot spot showing people eating mud pies.
     
    While Haiti definitely lacks development - it is still very rich in spirit and culture.  Haitian art is some of the best in the world with striking and violent contrasts of colour.  On top of painting they have incredible metal sculptures that are manually hammered and manipulated by their masters.  The music and love of singing is also amazing in the country.
     
    On top of that Haiti has THE BEST food and restaurants in the Caribbean.  Some sensationalism-loving journalists (hot zone) - indicate that Haitians eat nothing but dirt.  This is bull crap - I am sure the the lowest and poorest 1% may eat dirt from time to time... just like the poorest 1% in the USA eat garbage.    Why not show American's eating garbage instead and stop continually sensationalizing the poverty and crime of the country... let the country develop for christ's sakes.  During that same time period that Mr. Hot Zone was in Haiti kidnappings dropped by 23% and the country was dropped to 'medium' security risk globally.  Where was that coverage?  Why show the small, very violent, very poor neighbourhood where most of the gang warfare occurs?
     
    Lastly, go see Haitians play football one day.  Haiti is the next Brazil - all they need is a little development and Haiti will honestly explode into the football scene.
     
    I encourage you all to go visit Haiti yourself - it is an amazing cultural experience.
    May 23

    Orlando - Home of the Obnoxious Teen

    About 4 days after Haiti I went to Orlando and stayed at  hotel beside Disney World.  Orlando disturbed me far more than Haiti ever could.  Awkward, acne-covered, brace-faced teenagers were everywhere - even working at bars.  The place is just creepy - avoid it.

    Haiti - Poorest of the Poor

    Haiti is the poorest country in the western hemisphere.  Haiti is so underdeveloped they don't have any of the big fast food chains there.  Imagine a country without a Macdonalds, Burger King, KFC or Wendys!  Some of you would exclaim that this is fantastic but these corporations provide investment, sponsorship for local culture and jobs.
     
    Haiti has a population of 10M and is probably the second biggest island pop'n wise next to Cuba.  It is slightly larger than Dom Rep  - the other country that shares the island of Hispanolia with it.  In terms of selecting land on the island Haiti lost big time versus Dom Rep.  There are mountains that divide Haiti and Dom Rep.  The rivers of that mountain all flow into the Dom Rep side.  The rain all comes from the atlantic ocean and blows westwards.  The mountains however stop the rain from crossing into Haiti.  The mountains protect Dom Rep from hurricanes that blow in the channel between Jamaica and the island housing Haiti/Dom Rep.  They do the exact opposite to Haiti - the rain dump from the hurricane flows down the mountain and adds additional flooding.  In general the Haitian side has no forest, limited fresh water and very dry land.  The Dom Rep side has one of the most fertile regions in the world.
     
    For my job I had the honour of driving around the entire country 6 times in 3 days.  In my drive I saw some of the most extreme poverty I have ever seen.  At one point I had to stop at one of our towers in a very rural area to talk to some engineers who were onsite.  I got swarmed by half-clothed little kids asking all kinds of questions about phones - most of these kids were straight from one of those "help the children" tv ads.  Dirty faces, torn/ripped clothes, etc.  We bought some water and sodas from one of the kids who had been selling to the miners up the road and handed a few out.
     
    Shortly thereafter we drove by a small gov't run housing project beside a mine.  The men had just finished working at the mine and were all bathing naked in the mine water - with their horses.  The water was the colour of cement.  The women were on the side washing clothes.  Kids ran around - young kids had no clothes, older kids had t-shirts.  Everything and everybody was covered in limestone dust.  Still the people had a generally cheery air - perhaps because they do have jobs.

    Haiti - Land of the telephoned

    *** A big caveat on this article - some people have quoted this in other blogs.  Any information listed below is not necessarily fact but is based on my perceptions at the point in time - including dollar values***
     
    Last month I went to Haiti... twice.  The country is in a state of calm right now - it has been declassified to a "medium risk" country by most security experts.  I mean Jamaica does have a higher murder rate - but then again Jamaica has a higher murder rate than every country in the world.
     
    Yes I know that it is generally wrong to talk about your work in the context of a blog - but I can't help it, this was a huge event globally that I don't think got enough fair press.  The company I work for invested $130M into Haiti - this is the largest foreign investment ever into the country.  People lined up for phones starting at 4am the night before our launch.  Line-ups were hours long at EVERY store in the country.  It is the first time affordable mobile phones have been available in Haiti.  The current provider charges:
    i.  $50 USD to activate
    ii.  cheapest phone = $60
    iii.  You pay to make and receive calls
    iv. Rates are per-minute
     
    Our charges:
    i.  $0 to activate
    ii.  Three phones available for under $20
    iii.  You only pay to make calls
    iv. Rates are per-second
     
    People cannot afford mobile telephony at the current rates - they can afford it now.  The number of mobile subscribers in the country could go from 3-4% to 60-80% (this is all speculation on my part).  Honestly - it is a bit of a revolution - there are no landline phone networks either so this is the first time many people in Haiti will ever have a phone! 
     
    I know many people will argue that we are not in fact revolutionizing the country and that this is consumerism in its worst way.  I disagree for a number of reasons -
    1.  the phones we market and push are the phones under $20 USD.
    2.  We don't accept credit and we don't reduce the price of phones and force them to take long contracts (in the mass market) like you see in North America.  If a person wants to get an expensive phone they have to save up for it and in that case I think it is a legitimate spend.
    3.  Phones are always a balance of style versus function.  In developing countries the large portion of the selection is based on price and function with style lagging behind that.
    4. I have heard of a direct correlation between telecom growth and GDP growth in developing countries (not in the developed world).  I can't find anything strong that correlates it... but telecom is an enabler.  If teleco and technology improves communications improve which facilitates economic growth over all.  Yes I realize this is very glossy, high-level and weak.
     
    In the end I hope this is a turning point in the Haitian economy and that this investment hopefully shows a successful business model which will be a catalyst for future development and investment.

    Jackie Robinson of Jamaica

    The Jamaica Basketball Business House League (better known as the JBBHL or jibble) started last weekend.  After 6 months of 7am Saturday practices we were underway.  For all of you who are back home please think of corporate leagues you would play in - and then compare to what I am saying.
     
    The league started with a parade of teams where we came out and walked around the court and then we all lined up.  Each person had to be exactly one arm length away from the person in front and the person beside.  Then came the dress parade component.  They sent judges around to inspect each and every player - including nails, facial hair and general attractiveness.  After the judges inspected a guest speak was introduced... the introduction took almost 25 minutes.  The guest speaker spoke for about 5 minutes.  Then they announced the top three best dressed teams.  Unfortunatley most teams including my team were disqualified as knee-high socks are apparently the standard dress for basketball (ridiculous).
     
    The actual first day is a tournament where you play 4 other teams.  We ended up 2 and 2 for the day.  Each game was about 10 minutes.  I played for almost 5 minutes in one game - 5 out of 40 minutes.  My only achievement was setting a massive pick on a guy - some would say I was moving and the pick was illegal given I was running full speed elbows up at the guy... but the refs saw my side of the arguement and called nothing.
     
    Of course I am the only white guy in the league.  This is intimidating  - I honestly feel like I have the pressure of my whole race riding on my back - and unfortunately it is not a race known for basketball prowess beyond clumsy, big white guys and smallish shooters. I can't say the stares of the opposing players were friendly - and now I know what it was like for Jackie Robinson.
    April 17

    One Night In Toronto

    Easter weekend resulted in Erin and I making a last minute decision to fly out to Toronto for a weekend of partying.
     
    Its been a while since I've been on a lose-control-of-yourself, beer goes down like water, pants come off like they are on fire kind of night... I guess in Kingston our nights consist of more calmer events with small talk, etc.
     
    Most of the night is a blur... at one point I remember ranting miscellaneous, non-sensical things at the piano man... who actually stopped to listen to me... said "what"... forcing me to try and say something intelligible... which ultimately failed... and resulted in him saying... "oh you just want to yell"... which resulted in me yelling more garble.  Then we walked for chinese food where I had an arguement with a guy over superior social structures - feudalism or capitalism.
     
    Thanks to all who came out.
    March 26

    Basketball in Jamaica

    I made the Digicel basketball team.  Yes - it is a corporate league and there are tryouts!  I assume there won't be a going out for a few pints after the game mentality.  We practice Friday after work and Saturday mornings at 7am.  Waking up and playing basketball has changed my lifestyle completely.  I have an old man lifestyle of going to bed at 11pm on a weekend and getting up at 7am.
     
    The league starts in May.  My nickname is token on my team.  I am of course the only whitey on the team and will probably be the only white guy in the league.

    Brokeback Mountain in Jamaica

    Brokeback mountain aired in Jamaica - a country where anal sex is illegal and homosexuals are routinely beaten/killed.  My co-workers proposed a ban on the theater.  Erin went and saw it.  I wasn't getting my ass killed so I stayed far far away.  I guess I am not the strong-minded revolutionary I thought I was.
    March 25

    Travels

    The last few months have led Erin and I around the islands and Jamaica -
     
    Curacao - This is a country where the governer decided his headaches were due to the white coloured houses and ordered the country painted in pastels.  Upon arriving it is impossible to feel hostility in a city bathed in pink, blue, orange and yellow.  Curacao neighbours Aruba, with a third country Bonaire off of its coast.  Tied in with ST. Marteen this makes up the dutch caribbean (St. Barths may be one as well).  The people are mixes of dutch and latin american.  Papiamento is the local language though everybody speaks dutch, spanish and english as well... fluently.  Not much of a beach island though.  I presented at a launch of BlackBerry there - great party.
     
    Barbados Trip - I had a whirlwind trip of the Barbados and the eastern caribbean.  I showed up at work and was asked to get to Barbados that day.  An hour later I was off to the airport to catch a flight.  I landed in Barbados and was subsequently asked to go to St. Lucia the next day.  We went to St. Lucia - landed at 3pm, jumped in a car with a guy from BlackBerry and we proceeded to drive up and down the same street for 4 hours doing drive testing.  We then went back to the airport and flew back to Barbados.  In the airport I got a call from Air Jamaica telling me that their flight was canceled the next day.  I therefore had to switch to a 6am flight the next morning.
     
    Treasure Beach and Negril - Erin's parents came down and we proceeded on a cross country adventure of some of the sleepiest parts of Jamaica - combined with one of the partiest areas of Jamaica.  We drove through the south coast of Jamaica, stopping for a bath in milk river (most healing water in the world), stopping then in Lil' Ochee for fresh lobster (to die for lobster), then ended up inTreasure Beach.  We took a boat ride on a small fisherman's boat with a 74 year-old fisherman and heard countless fisherman tales - stopping at the Pelican Bar which is on a sandbar 2 miles out in the ocean.  Dolphins flipped around our boat and we learned valuable lessons such as that if dolphins are around there wont' be sharks - dolphins apparently top sharks in the heirarchy as the dolphins are quicker and will thump the side of the shark and drive it away.  Also dolphins often have a funeral ceremony where they keep bumping the dead body of another dolphin up to the top of ocean for several days.  We then ventured up Black River where we ran into a few large crocodiles, dark water and creepy mangroves.  In treasure beach we enjoyed the sleepy, relaxed nature of a country town not huge on tourism. 
     
    We traded that for Negril after a couple days.  Unknowinly to us it was spring break - the peak of drunken college mayhem in spring break.  Negril changed my mind - not all Americans are fat, in fact there were very few fat americans there - it was quite shocking.  The beach in Negril is amazing, 7 miles of white beach and turquoise water.  We went snorkeling and saw turtles, eels, stingrays and more... it was amazing.
    January 24

    Whose money is it anyways?

    the culture of begging was a term I heard when I first came here that almost made me sick with capitalist, hard-lined conservative puke.  my strong socialist philisophy tells me that people beg because the proper social welfare and job creation programs are not in place... how dare people accuse these helpless, uneducated people of adopting a culture of begging.
     
    Yesterday I was waiting on the street for Erin to give her money.  A homeless guy who I had apparently given about $20 USD one night in a drunken stumbling of a mess came running over to me... " I beg you a liikke somethin, just a likkle somethin"  but I told him that I had no money - which was true, the money I had was for Erin.
     
    Today I'm doing my usual lunchtime walk to the gym when he comes running up to me "You mek me sad, why you tell me you dun have money... me saw you had money in your hand and thats why I asked... you mek me sad because you waan give a likkle somethin"  I almost lost it on the guy... its my money if I wanted to give it to him I would have, I'm usually pretty liberal with my money and I don't want to hear about how I'm disappointing to this guy because I didn't give him money this one time.
     
    On Friday the aforementioned security guard from Erin's work caught up to me while I was at the bank.  Nothing worse than seeing a known beggar who you usually give money to at a bank.  He asks me for the big one... "loan me a blue one" - blue being the colour of the J1000 bill ($20 CDN).  I hesitate... its a lot of money and I know he has a crack problem.  I make him a deal and tell him he has to wash the car in and out on Monday and i won't loan him the money but I'll pay him J1000 to clean the car.  He agrees I give him the money.
     
    Monday comes, Erin takes the car to work.  She asks him if he's giong to clean it.. he tells her no unless he gives her a likkle something.  She gives him a couple of dollars.  He cleans the car.  She comes out, he's leaning against the car and begs for even more money.  Another $5 and everything is fine.  It gets worse, he washed the car with his own shirt which stinks like BO.  Now the whole care smells like BO.  I paid $28 for a BO smelling car.
     
    Is there no honour among beggars these days?  Maybe its the culture of begging...
    January 17

    Ah yes, It is still Kingston

    This morning an event reminded me of how fragile life and security are in Jamaica.  I was waiting for Erin on the side of the street when a guy came up to me "Please bredren, give me a likkle money man, a bwad man stabbed while me sleeping, and it hurt and me want to go to the hospital" and with that he stuck out his cut up arm and showed me the blood and slash wounds.  "Nobody cares" he says.
     
    Two days ago the security guard for Erin's work got attacked.  He got stabbed repeatedly in the arm as well.  Everybody, including Erin and I, know who did it... the guys who run the parking lot.  The police will never be phoned - I mean the security guard has a crack problem after all, he doesn't really deserve rights.  Its the second time they've attacked him in under a month, last time they broke his hand... I was on anti-inflammatories at the time for an injury so I gave him some.  The police will never be phone... certainly not by me... I don't want to get shot or have something happen to Erin.  The helpless mentality that crime breeds is perpetuating into me - its like watching a train wreck in slow motion... I know one day I will go to pick up Erin and the security guard will be gone... dead... probably killed in his own parking lot.  There will be no media, no police, no nothing, just one dead of 1600.  Erin's own station probably won't even cover it... and he works for them.

    Back In Jamrock

    I went home for christmas and a funny thing happened.  I realized that Kingston, aka Dodge, is now home.  I have long held romantic views of Canada and have longed to see friends and family, but returning home made me romanticize Jamaica and made me long to return (grass is always greener).
     
    Eventually I will always end up in Canada, it is home and I do love it... but for now I think I've finally gotten over my homesickness and am moving forward fully with life in Jamaica.
    December 17

    Engaged

    I proposed this weekend.

     

    Erin and I have been dating for 3.5 years, but it feels like a new relationship after I proposed.  There is a shift of views or paradigms or whatever word you would like to use as you go on your way to marriage.  The commitment factor and the use of stronger words of endearment change your perception of your relationship.  Now it feels closer, more real, more a part of me… less externalized.

    I had big dreams for the proposal.  First I was going to propose up at a resort in the Blue Mountains on the Friday but Erin told me she was too tired to go.  Then I had an idea of proposing at Lime Cay – a tiny island which is a 10 minute boat ride off the coast of Kingston.  Of course though as we lay in bed chatting on Saturday morning the timing just seemed right to do it then.  Unfortunately I remembered the ring was shoved into one of my soccer socks and started laughing to myself with visions of throwing a sock at Erin, giving her a wink and asking her to marry me.  She asked me what was up and why I was laughing… I told her it was my own little internal joke… she told me I wasn’t allowed an internal jokes.. I said fine “I’m laughing because I’m nervous because I want to ask you to marry me”… I walked over and got the ring and came back on one knee and asked… she said yes.

    Of course the ring didn’t fit and then when we went to the store we decided to try different rings on as well which resulted in the selection of a new ring.

     

    I’m still not sure where we will do it, we’ll decide over Christmas when we start talking to our families.  I’d love to do it in Jamaica – the ability to share the beauty of Jamaica with family and friends would be unbelievable.  Right now I’m at a hotel in a valley in the Blue Mountains… it is unbelievably quiet and peaceful here.  I’d love to show people what it is like here.  And I’d love to have one really lasting memory of Jamaica.

     

    On the other hand I’d also love to have lots of people at the wedding – and the cost of people coming to Jamaica is high which will reduce the number of people.  It’s a tough choice but I’m sure we’ll figure it out and wherever it is I’m sure we’ll have a blast.

     

    But to close off there are two things we do know for sure – Erin will be a Martell forever and there won’t be a church within 40 miles of the wedding.

    December 04

    Travels

    I have been traveling across the region again.  I went to St. Lucia, Barbados and Aruba the last few weeks.  I have a few notes:
     
    1.  Traveling in the Caribbean can be a nightmare.  Planes cancel all the time.
    2.  There is a new low-cost provider - LIAT which only charge US$50 to hop islands in the eastern caribbean.
    3.  Americans are fat... and filthy.  I hope there are some fat Americans reading this now and you all look down at your fat and shake your tummy in agreement.  I loath your fatness.. it repulses me.  It gives me visions of fat Americans procreating with fat bouncing everywhere... ugh.  You are so fat you fatty mc-fat fat Americans.

    Tour Guides

    After a thoroughly exhausting gym session yesterday a Erin, a friend and I went out to Juici Patty.  Juici Patty is a great fast-food patty chain in Jamaica where you can get a whole lunch for under USD $3.
     
    As usual Erin and I were the only white people in the restaurant when my friend mentioned something that really hit home in terms of how little interaction there is between real Jamaicans and ex-pats.  "Guys I feel like I'm your tourist guide here"
     
    It is true though, in order for an ex-pat to get involved or integrated into a Jamaican community or just with Jamaicans in general they generally have to be invited and have somebody bring them in - i.e. a tour guide.  On Friday night I played basketball at the local university and I needed a "tour guide" to bring me along otherwise I wouldn't have been very warmly welcomed - in fact I wasn't very warmly welcomed still - but then I started smack talking everybody on the court and made some plays and soon they were smack talking back and there was a normal basketball level of relationship on the court.
     
    Another example of the lack of integration is with eating.  Jamaicans are shocked when they see ex-pats eating their food... the team beside my desk all sat and stared at me the first time they saw me eating patties... and Erin's colleagues still can't get over white people eating patties.
    I'm not sure why there is such a low-level of integration, I'm not sure if it is due to white people being scared to open up and expose themselves or black people pushing away white people or if it is due to the perceived income differences... probably some combination of a number of things.  Truthfully its a shame, I know that my stay here would be much more welcoming and enjoyable if I had more Jamaican friends willing to show me the ropes.
    December 03

    Democracy in Jamaica

    I was amazed that a recent story in Jamaica received zero international coverage - perhaps this was due to the inadequacy of the local Jamaican media in reporting the event itself.

    The mayor of Kingston led a protest to the Jamaica House (equivalent of White House) with petitions signed asking for more money for hurricane disaster relief.  Along with him were several senior councillors from the municipal government.  There is a tradition in Jamaica that dates back to Michael Manley - if a local mayor leads a protest the prime minister himself will come out and speak to the mayor if the prime minister is available.  If not a senior bureaucrat from the prime minister's office will come out and speak to the mayor.

    Unfortunately it was not the case this time.  Perhaps the mayor had forgotten to inform the prime minister beforehand - perhaps it is because the two party system in Jamaica has divided the country more than USA - because when the mayor (affiliated to the non-governing JLP) approached the gate he was soundly tear-gassed... along with the masses including senior councillors!!!

    The leading party, including the prime minister and minister of national security did not issue any apologies.  The event was hardly covered in the local media! 

    Can you imagine if this had occured in Toronto???  If the feds tear-gassed the mayor!  The federal party would get murdered.  The media circus would be beyond comparison in Canadian history and the act would be considered a serious breach of democratic process.

    The interesting note is that it could not happen in Toronto... why do you ask?  Well the mayor is the boss of the Toronto police.  Partisan politics are less of a factor at the federal level because the RCMP has a limited mandate, same with the provincial police force... typically the muncipal level have the broadest scope and range - and municipal politics are not affiliated with parties (in theory).

    In Jamaica the federal government owns a constabulary, i.e. the entire police force.  In a recent Jamaica study 40% of the survey indicated that they thought the JCF (jamaican constabulary force) was lazy and corrupt!  IN addition 35% or so indicated that they would not call the police if they saw a major crime committed and had useful information.  Federal run police forces simply do not work - the police force becomes undemocratic, subject to partisan politics, centralized and inefficient.

    There is another reason why this would never happen in Canada - the media.  As mentioned earlier the police and government would come under intense media scrutiny and pressure.  In Jamaica the media seems to be non-existent, incompetent and redundant.  More Jamaicans watch CNN then they do local Jamaican news.  I have a friend who actually works for a local "24-hour" news station.  There will be over 1600 murders this year and they will largely go uncovered by the press.  Last night we drove by a man who was seriously injured or killed on a street near our house - we will never know what happened as it won't be on the news.  This friend explained why there was little media pressure "The cameramen stop working at 5pm and don't work weekends."  Ahhh yes, its the classic Jamaica issue - lack of investment and lack of caring.  They can't afford to pay for more than three cameramen and cameras - and the cameramen don't care enough to work outside of regular hours.  Thus the "24-hour" news stations is limited to 8 hours a day, 5 days a week.  In addtion, due the intense partisan politics, the news stations are heavily bias and will only cover what they are told to cover.  I suspect that murder situation is downplayed for a reason here.

    In general, I'd say that most Canadians need to stop being concerned with the media in Canada - it does an outstanding job of keeping the system's inline using pressure and scrutiny - you all just need to get out of paradise and compare once in a while.

    November 05

    Violence

    Guns scare me.
     
    Last week I was stuck in traffic on my way to work, in front of a school.  A cab passed by me going the other way.  Two cops on motorcycles decided to pass him.  The cab deliberately cut out in front of them, resulting in the cops plowing into the front of his car.
     
    As they pulled themselves out the guy in the car in front of me opened his door and came out with a rather large gun in his hand.  He ran low across the door of my car, jumped beside the car and put his gun in the passenger window of the cab and started yelling at him.  The cops came over and dragged the cabbie out, roughed him up a bit and cuffed him.  The other guy ran back to his car... turns out he was a plain clothes cop.  Never-the-less having a guy with a gun run beside your car is not a pleasant feeling.
     
    The police recently killed the number criminal in Jamaica - a don by the name of "Bulbie".  This has sparked basically a war between the gangs and the cops.  In Spanish Town the gangs attacked the police station.  The gangs also decided to start shooting and kiilling randomn people on the roads through Spanish Town.  The police have stepped up pressure by killing more gang members.  Apparently now they are saying the whole community was corrupt - http://www.jamaica-gleaner.com/gleaner/20051105/index.html
     
    I've been told that November and December are the murder months.  The murder rate tends to spike upwards - no reason was given by those who told this to me.  'Tis the season perhaps.
    October 30

    Hockey Night in Jamaica

    CBC is carried here by one of the cable providers... and a friend has it.  I got to watch Hockey Night in Canada last night.  Too bad the game sucked.

    Rain - F&$% Off Already

    Hurrican Beta and other weather factors have again wreaked soggy havoc on Jamaica.  The roads are now officially downgraded from degraded to pure pothole hell.  The middle of our street has collapsed for about 30 meters.
     
    It started raining on Thursday, has continued on until today and is expected to keep raining all week.  When it rains in Jamaica there is NOTHING to do.  Can't drive because the roads are washed out and flooded. If they aren't washed out then the traffic is appalling.  You can't play any sports.  Even a good portion of bars are outdoors here.  As such Erin and I have made it through 10-15 movies and a few big books over the last few weeks.